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EstimatorKit

Free insulation calculator

Insulation bought to an R-value, not a rate

Give this a wall or an attic and a target R and it returns batts by the piece or bags by the count, with the depth, the coverage per bag and what is already up there all shown. Insulation is sold against a performance number rather than a thickness, so coverage per bag falls as the target R rises — the same bag covers roughly twice the area at R-30 that it does at R-60 — which is why the chart printed on the bag is the authority here and a square-foot rate is not.

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  • Zones 1-8
  • Batts and blown-in
  • Reads your bag's chart

How to work out how much insulation to buy

Set the R-value, measure the cavity or the attic floor, then take the coverage off the bag.

  1. Fix the R-value before you measure anything

    Insulation is the one material on this site whose quantity is set by a performance number rather than a thickness. Pick the climate zone and the assembly and the 2021 IECC prescriptive figure fills the target field — R-60 in a zone 5 ceiling, R-30 in the wall below it — then type over it if your jurisdiction is on a different edition. Nothing else on the page can be worked out until that number exists, because the depth, the bag count and the coverage per bag all hang off it.

  2. For a cavity, count bays rather than square feet

    Give the wall its length and its floor-to-ceiling height and the tool takes the 4 1/2 in of bottom plate and doubled top plate out for you, leaving the cavity a batt actually has to fill. Bays come from the length and the spacing, the last one is usually short and takes a batt cut down its length, and the count that goes to the yard is pieces — 30 batts of 15 in by 93 in, not 276 square feet of wall.

  3. For blown-in, read the coverage off the bag at the R you are adding

    Measure what is already up there first: 6 in of old blown fiberglass is worth about R-15, so an R-60 attic is an R-45 layer to buy, not an R-60 one. Then take the square feet per bag from that R row of the chart printed on the bag and type it in. Leave it empty and the tool derives the figure from the product's density and R per inch, and says so — but the bag is the authority and the difference between the two is real money on 80 bags.

Technical specifications

Climate zones1 through 8 with marine 4, at the 2021 IECC prescriptive R-values for ceiling, wood-frame wall and floor, with the continuous-insulation alternatives printed as the code prints them
Batt lineupR-13 and R-15 at 3 1/2 in, R-19 at 6 1/4, R-21 at 5 1/2, R-25 at 8, R-30 at 9 1/2, R-38 at 12 — checked against 3 1/2, 5 1/2, 7 1/4, 9 1/4 and 11 1/4 in cavities
Bay layouts16 and 24 in on center for walls, 19.2 in as well for joists; batts are made 15 and 23 in wide, so a 19.2 in layout is cut to width in every bay
Precut lengths48, 93 and 105 in, with the offcut per bay printed; a wall bay takes one full-height piece, a joist run takes butt joints and carries its offcut into the next bay
Loose-fill defaultsCellulose at R-3.5 per inch and 1.5 lb/ft³ in a 19 lb bag, blown fiberglass at R-2.5 per inch and 0.6 lb/ft³ — every figure editable, and all of them beaten by the chart on your bag
Coverage chartR-13 to R-60 in the four columns the bag carries: minimum thickness, square feet per bag, pounds per square foot and bags per 1,000 sq ft
Attic extrasOne depth marker per 300 sq ft under IECC R303.1.1.1, eave baffles by rafter spacing, and the added weight in lb/ft² against the 1.3 lb/ft² GA-216 allows on 1/2 in ceiling board at 24 in centers
Where it runsIn this tab. No ZIP code, no square footage posted to an installer, no quote request behind the answer

Frequently asked questions

How many bags of blown-in insulation do I need for my attic?

Divide the attic's square footage by the coverage the bag's chart gives for the R-value you are adding — not the R you want to end up with. A 988 sq ft attic that already holds 6 in of old fiberglass is at about R-15, so a jump to R-60 is an R-45 layer, and reading the R-60 row instead buys a third more material than the attic can hold. Coverage figures vary enough between products that the derived number here is a starting point and the printed chart wins; whatever you type, including the price the yard quoted you, is used once in this tab and never sent anywhere.

Why does one bag cover less area at R-49 than it does at R-30?

Because a bag holds a fixed weight of material and a higher R needs more of that weight under every square foot. The thickness rises with the R and the density stays where the product settles, so the pounds per square foot rise in step and the area one bag can cover falls in inverse proportion: double the R and you halve the coverage. That is why a square-foot rate quoted with no R-value attached to it is not an answer, and it is why the federal R-value Rule makes manufacturers print a coverage chart — R-value down the side, minimum thickness, maximum coverage and pounds per square foot across — on every bag of loose fill sold.

Does squashing a batt into a shallower cavity lose R-value?

Yes, and the standard lineup makes you do it. An R-19 batt is manufactured 6 1/4 in thick and sold for a 2×6 wall, which is 5 1/2 in — pushed into that cavity it delivers about R-18. The compression raises the density, which buys back a little R per inch, but never all of what the lost thickness cost. R-25 into a 2×8, R-30 into a 2×10 and R-38 into a 2×12 are all compression fits for the same reason. The only batts that fit their cavity exactly are R-13 and R-15 in a 2×4 and R-21 in a 2×6, which is the honest argument for R-21 over R-19.

Faced or unfaced — which one do I buy?

That is a vapor-retarder decision and not an insulation one: kraft facing changes nothing about the R-value. The facing is a Class II vapor retarder, and IRC R702.7 requires a Class I or II retarder on the interior side of frame walls in climate zones 5, 6, 7, 8 and marine 4 — so in a cold-climate wall the kraft goes toward the heated side and nowhere else. Two rules follow. Never install two retarders in one assembly, which is what kraft plus a poly sheet does: the cavity between them has no way to dry. And never lay kraft-faced batts face-up over insulation already in an attic, because the facing then sits in the middle of the assembly with cold material above it; unfaced is what that job takes.

How deep does attic insulation have to be for R-49?

It depends entirely on what you blow, which is why depth is an output here and never an input. At the middle of the published range, cellulose at R-3.5 an inch reaches R-49 in about 14 in and loose fiberglass at R-2.5 an inch needs closer to 19 1/2 in of the same R. Neither number is a target to eyeball from the hatch: IECC R303.1.1.1 asks for one depth marker per 300 sq ft of attic, marked with the minimum initial installed thickness in numerals at least an inch high and facing the access, and the reason that rule exists is that a blower operator working alone cannot tell 11 in from 14 in by looking at it.

There is grey-brown gravel in my attic that looks like mica. What is it?

Almost certainly vermiculite, and the EPA's guidance is to assume it contains asbestos and leave it alone. Most vermiculite attic insulation sold in the US before 1990 came from a mine at Libby, Montana that was contaminated with asbestos, and the fibers are released by disturbance — walking on it, moving it aside to run a wire, or blowing anything over it. It is not a weekend job and it is not a topping-up job. Get it tested, and if it is positive the next call is a licensed abatement contractor rather than a rental blower.

Can I put batts on top of the blown insulation already in the attic?

Yes, provided they are unfaced and laid across the joists rather than between them. Running them perpendicular covers the top edge of every joist, which is the strip of ceiling that loses heat fastest once everything either side of it is insulated. Do not compress what is underneath — a batt squashed into an existing layer costs both of them R — and do not push either material out over the soffit. The eave needs the 1 in air space IRC R806.3 requires between insulation and roof sheathing, which is what a baffle in each rafter bay holds open, and non-IC-rated recessed light fixtures need 3 in of clearance on every side.

About R-value, coverage charts and why bags are not sold by the square foot

Every other material on this site is bought by volume or by area. Insulation is bought by performance: the number on the package is R, thermal resistance, and everything physical about the purchase — how thick the layer is, how much a bag covers, how many bags come off the pallet — falls out of that one figure afterward. For loose fill the relationship is arithmetic and unforgiving. A bag holds a fixed weight. The R you are aiming at sets the depth, the depth and the settled density set the pounds under every square foot, and the area one bag can cover is the bag weight divided by that. Double the R and you halve the coverage. This is exactly why the federal R-value Rule requires a coverage chart on the bag rather than a single number: R-value down the side, and minimum thickness, maximum coverage, pounds per square foot and bags per 1,000 square feet across. A calculator that multiplies your attic by one fixed square feet per bag has thrown that chart away, and a calculator that answers in cubic feet has answered a question nobody asked at the trade counter. The chart is the thing to type in here, and the figure this page derives from published density and R-per-inch ranges is what you use until you are standing in front of the bag.

Batts do not behave that way at all, which is why they are counted separately. A batt is a manufactured piece sized to a framing layout — 15 in wide for 16 in on center, 23 in for 24 in, both a little wider than the clear bay so friction holds them up — and the useful count is pieces, not area. What surprises people is the depth. R-13 and R-15 are made at 3 1/2 in and fill a 2×4 exactly; R-21 is made at 5 1/2 in and fills a 2×6 exactly; every other batt in the lineup is thicker than the cavity it is sold for. The famous one is R-19, manufactured at 6 1/4 in for a wall that is 5 1/2 in deep, where compressing it to fit leaves about R-18. That is not a defect in the batt, it is what happens whenever you trade thickness for density, and it applies just as much to a batt stuffed behind a wire or squashed by a pipe. The gap in the other direction is worse: a batt thinner than its cavity adds nothing for the space it leaves, and air loops through the void against the sheathing. None of this touches the studs themselves, which run about R-1.25 an inch and stay cold whatever goes beside them — the reason the 2021 code offers R-20 plus R-5 continuous as an alternative to a cavity value no batt can reach. Get the cavity right before the drywall calculator closes it up, because everything here is invisible and unfixable ten minutes later.

Attics have their own set of traps, and topping up is the biggest. Almost no attic is bare, so the layer you are buying is the difference between the R already lying there and the R you want — read the chart at the total and you overbuy by a third on a typical job. Depth then has to be verified rather than eyeballed, which is why one marker per 300 square feet is a code requirement and not a nicety, and why cellulose bags print an initial installed thickness alongside the settled one. Watch two more things while the blower is running: the eaves, where loose fill pushed into an open soffit blocks the ventilation the roof depends on unless a baffle holds the air space open, and the ceiling itself, since a deep cellulose layer can put over 1.5 lb on every square foot of half-inch board. Last, the facing. Kraft versus unfaced changes the vapor retarder and not the R-value, one assembly gets one retarder and it faces the heated side, and a floor over a crawl space or an unheated garage is a thermal boundary with the same rules — the batts that go between those joists are counted in the same panel as a wall, and what lands on top of them is the flooring calculator.

No lead form behind the answer

Every number on this page is worked out by JavaScript running in the tab you are reading it in. Nothing you type — measurements, quantities, the prices your supplier quoted you — is uploaded, logged or kept, which is also why the calculators carry on working on a site with no signal.

Insulation is the trade where the calculator is usually a quote form with arithmetic attached. There is no contractor on the other end of this one, which is also why the climate zone is a dropdown rather than a ZIP code lookup: the zone is all the arithmetic needs, and your address is not part of it.