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EstimatorKit

Free deck materials list

Deck calculator — the whole materials list, not just the boards

Give the length along the house and the projection out from it, and this returns the order: decking boards in the stock length that wastes least, joists at the spacing your boards are rated for, beam plies, posts, footings, screws or hidden clips, joist hangers, ledger fasteners and balusters. Rows are counted as boards plus the gaps between them, because a 5 1/2 in board on a 1/4 in gap covers 5 3/4 in of run — which is also how the page can tell you what the last board rips to, and what gap would let every board land whole instead.

  • 100% free
  • No signup
  • Feet, inches and fractions
  • Gap counted, not ignored
  • Wood and composite spans

How to take off a deck

Three steps, and the order of them is what keeps the frame and the surface agreeing with each other.

  1. Measure the deck the way it will be framed

    Two dimensions, and which is which matters more than either number. The length runs along the house, because that is the direction the boards run and therefore the length of every row. The width is the projection out from the house, because that is what the joists span and what the span table has to cover. Take the length from the face of the ledger, not from the siding: the siding stands off the band joist by half an inch or more and none of it is deck. On a wrap-around or an L, run the tool once per rectangle and add the results, because the joists in each leg run a different way.

  2. Set the board face and the gap before you look at anything else

    The gap is a covering dimension, not a detail. Five and a half inches of board on a quarter-inch gap covers five and three quarters of the run, so the two fields together decide the board count and nothing else does. Measure a board rather than trusting the label — capped composite is sold at 5.5, 5.4 and 5.36 in depending on the brand, and across a 16 ft width that difference is a whole extra row. Wet pressure-treated stock is the exception that catches people: it goes down almost tight because it shrinks across the face as it dries, so the default here is an eighth rather than a quarter.

  3. Let the decking pick the joist spacing, then check the span

    Choose the board first and the frame follows it, which is the opposite of the order most people build in their heads. Two-inch boards are allowed 24 in centers, 5/4 stops at 16, and turning either 45 degrees drops it a step because the board is now reaching further between bearings. Composite is not covered by that table at all — it is whatever the printed instructions say, usually 16 in across and 12 in on the diagonal. With the spacing set, the joist span check compares your projection against the published table for the species group you picked, and tells you which of the three ways out applies if it does not fit.

Technical specifications

Board profiles5/4 x 6 and 2 x 6 wood at their 5 1/2 in dressed face, capped composite and PVC at a nominal 5 1/2 — and the face is editable, because brands ship 5.5, 5.4 and 5.36 in
Gap defaults1/8 in for wet pressure-treated, 1/4 in for dried wood, 3/16 in for composite; anything from 0 to 3/8 in is accepted
Joist spacing12, 16 and 24 in on center, checked against what the decking is rated for — 24 in for 2 in boards and 16 for 5/4 under IRC Table R507.7, 12 in once either turns 45 degrees
Joist span table36 published rows: 2 x 6 through 2 x 12, three species groups, three spacings, at 40 psf live plus 10 psf dead in wet service
Stock lengths8 to 16 ft for wood, 12, 16 and 20 ft for composite — every one costed against a single row, including the two-length mix when no board reaches
Cantilever checkOne quarter of the joist's back span, the limit printed with the span table
Guard36 in high wherever the deck stands more than 30 in above grade, with balusters spaced so no opening passes a 4 in sphere
Data keptNone — the deck size, the board face and the species never leave the tab

Frequently asked questions

How many deck boards does a 12 by 16 ft deck take?

Twenty-six rows of 16 ft board, plus a couple of spares. The 12 ft dimension is the one the boards cross: 144 inches of run, and a 5 1/2 in board on an eighth-inch gap covers 5 5/8 in of it, so 26 boards land across it with the last one ripped narrow. Buying 16 ft lengths means one board per row and no butt joints anywhere on the deck, which is worth more than the few dollars a mix of shorter lengths might save. Divide 144 by 5.5 and ignore the gaps, the way most calculators do, and you get 27 — one board you carry home, stand behind the shed and never use.

Do I gap wet pressure-treated decking?

Barely — an eighth of an inch at most, and plenty of builders lay it tight. A board that arrives dripping is at or near the fiber saturation point and will lose close to a quarter inch across a 5 1/2 in face over its first summer, so a quarter-inch gap laid wet opens into a three-eighths gap that swallows keys and dog claws. Kiln-dried, air-dried and composite boards go the other way and need the gap from day one. If you cannot tell which you have, weigh one: a soaking 5/4 x 6 x 16 is close to twice the weight of the same board dry.

Why does composite need joists at 16 in when my wood deck was at 24?

Because a composite board is a covering rather than a structural member, and it creeps. Wood carries a load and stops deflecting; a polymer-bound board keeps sagging slowly under the same load, so the manufacturers set the spacing themselves and the code defers to them instead of publishing a number. Sixteen inches across the joists and twelve on the diagonal is the usual pair, and stair treads are almost always held to twelve regardless. Two-inch nominal wood decking is the only surface on this page that the code lets out to 24 in.

Can I lay composite on the frame that is already there?

Only if the joists are at or inside the spacing your boards are rated for, and only after you have been under it with a screwdriver. This is the single most common resurfacing mistake: a 1990s deck framed at 24 in centers for 2 x 6 wood decking will take composite boards that then flex underfoot between every pair of joists, and the manufacturer's warranty is void the moment the spacing is wrong. Sistering an extra joist between each existing pair brings 24 in down to 12, which is the fix when the frame is otherwise sound — and this page counts that as a joist run at the new spacing.

How many screws does a deck take?

About three and a half per square foot with 5 1/2 in boards on joists at 16 in centers — roughly 350 in a 100 sq ft, which is also why a 5 lb box is the unit the aisle sells them in. The arithmetic is two per board at every joist it crosses, so it scales with the joist spacing rather than the area: the same deck framed at 12 in centers needs a third more, and one at 24 in needs a quarter fewer. Butt joints cost two extra each, because both board ends land on the same joist. Grooved boards on hidden clips run at one clip per crossing instead, which is half the count and none of it visible.

How far can a deck joist span?

Read it off the deck joist table in the code, not off the floor joist table — they are different numbers for the same board. A deck joist is wet service under a 40 psf live load with nothing but weather over it, and the published spans come out shorter than the same size would carry inside a house. A 2 x 8 of southern pine at 16 in centers is listed at 11 ft 10 in, so a 12 ft deck misses it by two inches and wants a 2 x 10, closer centers or a second beam. This page reproduces that table for three species groups so the check is in front of you, but a table on a web page approves nothing: the grade stamp on your actual boards, the hot tub you have not mentioned and your building department all outrank it.

The last board comes out as a two-inch strip. What do I do about it?

Change the gap — it is the free variable, and nobody has ever noticed a thirty-second of an inch spread across two dozen joints. A 12 ft width at a quarter-inch gap lands the twenty-sixth board as a quarter-inch sliver; open the gaps to about nine thirty-seconds and twenty-five full boards cover the same 144 inches with no rip at all. The other two answers are a picture-frame border, which turns the ragged edge into a deliberate one and hides the rip under the mitered perimeter board, and splitting the shortfall so the first and last rows are ripped to the same width. Decide before the first board goes down; it cannot be fixed at the far edge.

About counting a deck

A deck take-off has one arithmetic trap in it and almost every calculator on the web falls into it. Boards do not tile the deck; boards and gaps do. Five and a half inches of face on a quarter-inch gap covers five and three quarters of the run, so the gaps are doing 4.3 percent of the covering, and a page that divides deck width by board width orders 4.3 percent more boards than the deck can physically hold — three of them on a 30 ft run, bought, carried and stacked behind the shed. Counting it properly is not harder, it is just a different sum: n boards leave n minus one gaps between them, which is also the only way to find out what the last board rips to. That number is the one people care about once the deck is half down, because a two-inch strip along the outside edge is the first thing anyone sees, and it is entirely avoidable — the gap is a free variable and a thirty-second of an inch spread across two dozen joints is invisible.

The other thing worth getting right is the direction of the decision: the decking picks the joist spacing, not the other way round. IRC Table R507.7 lets 2 in nominal boards span 24 in between joists and holds 5/4 to 16, and turning either of them 45 degrees drops it a step because the board is now reaching further between bearings. Composite is not in that table at all — the code hands it back to the manufacturer's printed instructions, which is why the same 16 in you use for 5/4 wood is a rule rather than a code minimum, and why stair treads are usually held to 12. This is what makes a resurfacing job go wrong: a deck framed at 24 in centers in 1995 for 2 x 6 wood will happily accept composite boards that then flex between every pair of joists and void the warranty. It is also why the span check on this page reads off the deck joist table rather than the one for floors — a deck joist is wet service under a 40 psf live load, and the published spans come out shorter than the same board carries indoors. Reference, not approval: the grade stamp on your boards and your building department are the ones who decide.

Three things sit next to this page rather than inside it. The flight down to the yard has its own rise, run and stringer arithmetic, so take it through the stair calculator and add its treads to the decking order here. The walls of anything you build on the deck — a privacy screen, a pergola post wall — belong to the framing calculator, and the concrete that goes in the footing holes to the concrete calculator, which counts piers as a set rather than one at a time. If the yard is quoting rough or hardwood decking by volume instead of by the piece, the board foot calculator converts the list above into the unit on the invoice. And once a roof goes over the deck, the sheathing comes off the plywood calculator, the framing off the rafter calculator and the rafter length calculator, and the covering off the shingle calculator.

Where the deck dimensions go

Every number on this page is worked out by JavaScript running in the tab you are reading it in. Nothing you type — measurements, quantities, the prices your supplier quoted you — is uploaded, logged or kept, which is also why the calculators carry on working on a site with no signal.

The materials list prints as well as copies: the browser's print view drops the header, the ads and everything below the tool, and leaves the order and the stock-length table on the page. Nothing is generated on a server to make that happen, so it works on a phone with no signal in a yard.